Chef Tim Goodell’s Royal Hen transcends the Old-World classic pub with a contemporary spin on cuisine
Written by Susan Irby
Chef Tim Goodell is highly acclaimed, and multi-award-winning for a reason… his cuisine is utterly mind-blowing, no matter the fare. A culinary icon with restaurants such as the former Aubergine and Troquet and the newer Public Kitchen & Bar Hollywood, Goodell’s newest culinary endeavor is Royal Hen on Balboa Island. “Inspired by Old-World Parisian and English pubs,” says Goodell, “the décor and cuisine at Royal Hen takes you away from current time.” As do the tantalizing flavors of his dishes, which elevate the palate with creations such as the Brussels Sprouts Caesar Salad; Foie Gras and Chicken Liver Toast with cherry moustarda; Maccheroni alla Chitarra short ribs; and Rabbit and Black Truffle Agnolotti with squab liver crema. Richer in flavor as the menu progresses, dishes are designed for guests to share and include ingredients like house-made sausages and veal cheek.
General manager, Elizabeth Blankstein, hand selects the Hen’s self-described “esoteric wine list,” selections of which she’ll artfully pair with each dish upon request. The Cuvee Delaye Saint-Veran chardonnay pairs nicely with the previously referenced Brussels Sprouts Caesar and Foie Gras, while the Piedrasassi Harrison Clarke Vineyard syrah/mourvedre is the perfect accompaniment to the short ribs. Don’t forget to ask about the secret menu featuring Goodell’s best burger. Though off the menu, “I kept the burger available for the locals,” shares the chef.” [It’s] still a best-kept secret.”
311 Marine Avenue, Newport Beach, CA 92662 ~ 949 873 5603 | TheRoyalHen.com